I find time and inspiration today, dear Friends, to finish the year with a scribble and a thought or two. Won’t trouble you with any ponderings on the import of the waning old year or the opportunities presented by the waxing new year. Today is all about fashion.
If there were a Maslow’s Hierarchy of feminine presentation,
battling for the peak of the pyramid would be a handful of epic designs, pieces
so desirable, timeless and celebratory of womanhood that generations of women
lust for them. Me too.
The Chanel Clutch. The Louboutin Pump. The Cartier Watch. Things
that effortlessly broadcast “because I’m worth it” in a way that L’Oreal needs
to spell out. Pieces that, if one ever really found herself stranded in a war
zone, you could pawn for an exit visa (but deep down you know you simply wouldn’t
part with them).
It is a select list, and I propose to add to it.
The Diane von Furstenberg Wrap Dress.
The DVF Wrap was perhaps the most perfectly timed design
since Noah’s Arc. Ms. Von Furstenberg had just recently pitched up on American
shores from a design apprenticeship in Italy with a bag of her own early
samples and an appetite for a new life.
“You know, I made easy little dresses. That's what I did. I didn't think I was actually designing them and I didn't think I was making a fashion statement.”
Over 40 years later, The Dress is still a valid fashion
statement. It was in the early 1970’s a part of genuine revolution, a
turbo-charger to the Feminist movement. The 20th Century woman had
been chiseling away at the constrictions of fashion with tiny but important
hammer thwocks for years … Greta Garbo in tuxedo. Kate Hepburn in slacks. Small
platoons of bra-burners finally fed up with girdling, garters and exaggerated silhouettes
largely dictated by men who displayed a nearly uniform lack of regard for
comfort or appreciation of the natural and distinct beauty of women.
This turbulent era saw American women entering the workforce
in greater numbers and with higher expectations than had been the case since WWII.
“Libbers” carrying on the great work of the Suffragette movement confronted
male power structures in the corporate world at distinct disadvantages, lacking
role models, networks, legal protection from workplace harassment or broad
access to child care facilities.
And on top of all that, just what the hell were we to wear
to the office? The skirt/blouse combo just screamed secretarial pool, catalyzed
countless coffee runs and reinforced glass ceilings. Initial fumbling fashion
responses focused on aping masculine fashions. Big shoulders, straight lines,
bland palettes, cuffed trouser cuts, boxy shoes and perhaps the tiniest
concession to femininity, a bowed collar rather than a necktie. Nobody was
having any kind of fun with this look.
Then came The Dress. I am wearing mine just now. Let me
describe it. The Dress just flows. A stretchy silk / lycra blend, it goes on
like a shirt and wraps up like a dream. It falls to the knee and cinches high
on the waist. Gentle, gossamer fabric obscures imperfections of figure, a
discrete flash of thigh delights when seated. Plunging ruching at neckline beg for jewelry and feature the natural blessings of bust without giving the store away for free.
It just moves so freely, it feels like nothing and like nothing else at the
same time. I could not walk like a man in this garment with a gun to my head.
I, like Leisl, feel pretty. O so pretty.
They flew off the racks and invaded an unsuspecting world. A
garment that celebrated female form and dressed it for comfort all at once.
Suitable for the office and aching for the evening transition to dinner and
dancefloor. I can’t say that Disco was ever my cup of tea (more of a Clash girl
if you must know), but that thankfully fleeting cultural moment would have been
entirely, unredeemably, god-awful-er without The Dress.
And talk about quick pee-breaks! Gather it up, drop the
knickers, do the business and get right back to the revolution.
Patterns proliferated. Colors exploded. Lines and lengths, sleeve
and collar treatments were tweaked and freshened up season to season, but the
essence remains. I am Woman, hear me roar, in fashion too good to ignore.
Sparks flew and designers followed with a hall pass to
create looks that vived La Difference,
that did not simply ape male ape shapes, that celebrated all that you and I
have within us and, on good days, on our surfaces too.
Found mine at Neiman Marcus Last Call yesterday. Had not
visited the NM Value / Clearance venue before and honestly expected to kiss a
few frogs and go home without anything slung shoulder-wise. Given the generally
ritzy price-point zip code of good old Needless Markup, I was fortifying myself
with reminders about just how expensive the holiday season has already been and
how uncertain tomorrow can be.
Said defenses melted when I saw the DVF section and was
reminded that somewhere deep in my subconscious I had for decades lusted after
this dress (as both spectator and participant as it happens). There were a small handful
left on the rack, mostly skinny 2’s or curvy12’s, but one perfectly sexy six, riotous
in black, blue and white tropical garden motif.
Arms going like a veggie dicer peeling off my things and
into the embrace of what I knew instantly started a journey decades ago with
the sole mission of wrapping around me with the kindest, purest embrace I have
ever felt from a supposedly inanimate object. Out to the three-way for a twirl
and a look see. Chatted with a fellow shopper who practically teared up
remembering her first DVF and said the universe would rightly be upset with me
if I did not go home with The Dress.
I could not, did not argue. Aided by a substantial year end
mark-down on a markdown my new beauty came home at about 35% of original retail
too, score for Petra. Be assured that she looks better than the snap indicates,
and even if not, the feeling compensates, insulates and celebrates everything I
love about my own Voyages en Rose.
I do not suspect to ever be in the position to justify the
purchase of Icons mentioned earlier in this post. Let me take that back. I have
a perfectly functioning second kidney. With a tissue match I would probably
sign up for the Clutch and the Cartier. And with a little frugality the Louboutins
are actually in reach. I do after all have a birthday coming sometime in the
new year, yes?
If I get them, you will be amongst the first to know.
Happy New Year.
xoxo - Petra